Grading is the process of taking the initial sample pattern (e.g. a size 8) and making the full range of sized patterns (sizes 2-24) for production. It is a separate industry from patternmaking and sample creation. Once a garment goes into production, grading the pattern is the first step. Then the patterns for all the sizes in production must be laid out in a marker, or pattern layout which includes pattern pieces for all sized in production, for maximum fabric conservation.
EMc/MS 12/21
FIT graduate Paul Cavazza, Create a Marker Co., From Made in Midtown.
Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design [e-book]
One of the greatest challenges for the apparel industry is to produce garments that fit customers properly. Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design addresses the need for improved characterization of our populations in order to tailor garments according to size, weight, and shape of consumers. This book reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing design. Part one considers a range of anthropometric methods. The text discusses the range of sizing systems, including data mining techniques, useful for bridging the gap between ergonomists and designers. Chapters examine three-dimensional anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensions. Part two then explains how to analyze anthropometric data to develop appropriate sizing systems. Here, the book discusses classification and clustering of human body shapes, the importance of national surveys, and using the data obtained to ensure inclusive design strategies. The book covers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization. It considers the advantages of 3D body scanning and computer-aided design, and the use of body motion analysis to address ease allowance requirements of apparel. With its distinguished editors and international contributors, this work is an essential reference, particularly due to the specific combination of aspects of anthropometry and the sizing of clothing, for researchers, garment designers, students, and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. Reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing design Examines 3D anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensions Covers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization
Clothing for Children and Teenagers: Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit [e-book]
Clothing for Children and Teenagers: Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit addresses the complexities of developing size specifications for clothing aimed at seven to seventeen year olds. Children and teenagers experience rapid physical growth and alterations in body shape as they develop--changes that pose significant challenges in creating apparel sizing systems. The book begins by introducing the principles of apparel fit and sizing systems. Drawing on the author's own fieldwork, it goes on to discuss methods of conducting anthropometric surveys in children and teenagers, and techniques for analyzing the resulting data in order to produce successful sizing systems. Introduces the principles of apparel fit and sizing systems, and discusses methods of conducting anthropometric surveys in children and teenagers. Offers systematic and comprehensive coverage of the complexities associated with clothing for children and teenagers. Reviews techniques in analysis and classification of children and teenagers' body shapes and sizes. Covers the development, designation, and validation of an apparel sizing system for children and teenagers.
Designing Apparel for Consumers: The Impact of Body Shape and Size [e-book]
Given its importance for consumer satisfaction and thus brand success, apparel fit is a major challenge for retailers and brands across the industry. Consequently there have been major developments in sizing research and how it can be used in apparel design. This book reviews how these developments are affecting clothing design for different groups of consumers. Part one identifies various aspects of body shape, size, volume and the psychological aspects of designing apparel. This section covers topics such as body shape and its influence on apparel size and consumer choices, sizing systems, body shape and weight distribution (with a discussion of the Body Volume Index (BVI) versus the Body Mass Index (BMI)), and the psychological and sociological factors influencing consumers' choice of apparel. Part two outlines the challenges in understanding the sizing and shape requirements and choices of particular customer groups. This section discusses apparel designed for infants and children, older consumers, overweight and obese consumers, plus size Black and Latino women, apparel design for Asian and Caucasian ethnic groups, sizing requirements for male apparel, maternity apparel, intimate apparel for varying body shapes, and the challenges of designing headwear to fit the size and shape of Western and Asian populations. Designing apparel for consumers provides an invaluable reference for apparel designers, manufacturers, and R&D managers in the textile industry, as well as postgraduate students and academic researchers in textiles. Reviews developments affecting clothing design for different groups of consumers Identifies various aspects of body shape, size, volume and the psychological aspects of designing apparel Outlines the challenges in understanding sizing and shape requirements and choices of particular customer groups
Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design - 3rd ed. by
With the continuing growth of private label brands, the demand for skilled technical designers has never been greater. The 3rd Edition of Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design equips students with everything they need to know about measuring sample garments, creating fully graded spec sheets, fitting garments and grading patterns for production. Over 500 technical flats are clearly labeled with measurement points and instructions for taking measurements. A new chapter on children's wear expands upon the already comprehensive coverage of knit and woven womenswear and menswear. The new edition includes more coverage of PLM/PDM and computer-aided technical design, model measuring, graded pattern nests and more. New to this Edition: New section on computer-aided technical design including coverage of PLM/PDM software such as Gerber, Lectra, and Optitex; New chapter on childrenswear with points of measure (POM) and grading information; Added instructions on measuring the human body; Expanded information on fitting and grading; Updated appendices with new fashion flats and body figure croquis and a metric conversion chart.
Concepts of Pattern Grading: techniques for manual and computer grading - 3rd ed. by
This step-by-step introduction to grading combines the theory of pattern grading with its practical applications. After presenting the x, y orientation to familiarize readers with the concepts of computer grading and using the Cartesian graph, the text takes a holistic approach, integrating anthropometry, size specifications, and grade guides into the grading process for women's garments with emphasis on maintaining fit and style sense. New to this Edition: - Expanded discussion of computer grading technology including Optitex, Gerber, Lectra, and Tukatech software - 20% new end-of-chapter exercises - Includes more than 200 illustrations and 85 tables for grade rules, measurement charts and garment specifications - Added discussion on grading from specifications and development of tolerances.
Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design [e-book]
One of the greatest challenges for the apparel industry is to produce garments that fit customers properly. Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design addresses the need for improved characterization of our populations in order to tailor garments according to size, weight, and shape of consumers. This book reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing design. Part one considers a range of anthropometric methods. The text discusses the range of sizing systems, including data mining techniques, useful for bridging the gap between ergonomists and designers. Chapters examine three-dimensional anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensions. Part two then explains how to analyze anthropometric data to develop appropriate sizing systems. Here, the book discusses classification and clustering of human body shapes, the importance of national surveys, and using the data obtained to ensure inclusive design strategies. The book covers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization. It considers the advantages of 3D body scanning and computer-aided design, and the use of body motion analysis to address ease allowance requirements of apparel. With its distinguished editors and international contributors, this work is an essential reference, particularly due to the specific combination of aspects of anthropometry and the sizing of clothing, for researchers, garment designers, students, and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. Reviews techniques in anthropometry, sizing system developments, and their applications to clothing design Examines 3D anthropometric methods and multivariate and bivariate analysis for identifying key body dimensions Covers sizing systems developed for particular groups, apparel size designation, and the potential for international standardization
Apparel Sizing and Fit by Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design - 3rd ed. by
With the continuing growth of private label brands, the demand for skilled technical designers has never been greater. The 3rd Edition of Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design equips students with everything they need to know about measuring sample garments, creating fully graded spec sheets, fitting garments and grading patterns for production. Over 500 technical flats are clearly labeled with measurement points and instructions for taking measurements. A new chapter on children's wear expands upon the already comprehensive coverage of knit and woven womenswear and menswear. The new edition includes more coverage of PLM/PDM and computer-aided technical design, model measuring, graded pattern nests and more. New to this Edition: New section on computer-aided technical design including coverage of PLM/PDM software such as Gerber, Lectra, and Optitex; New chapter on childrenswear with points of measure (POM) and grading information; Added instructions on measuring the human body; Expanded information on fitting and grading; Updated appendices with new fashion flats and body figure croquis and a metric conversion chart.
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