Technical Apparel Design: Patternmaking, Draping, and Grading
This research guide offers resources for the technical aspects of fashion design. These include patternmaking, drafting, and draping as well as sizing and pattern grading.
Different garments requires different and specialized skills to produce. This page breaks down our resources into recommendations by different garment categories, allowing for instructions that go into greater detail.
EMc/MS 12/21
Tailored and outerwear pieces
Fashion Patternmaking Techniques [Vol. 2]: How to Make Shirts, Undergarments, Dresses and Suits, Waistcoats and Jackets for Women and Men by Antonio DonnannoThis second volume of Fashion Patternmaking Techniques, guides readers through and examine the various procedures for transforming bodices, through dart manipulation as well as studying techniques for creating volumes, draping, and fitted patterns. The book includes techniques for creating patterns for knit fabrics; basic dress blocks and how to adapt these to different fabric patterns and types of garment (for example, maternity dresses); sleeves; basic blocks for men's vests and jackets; size grading for tops and dresses and the fundamentals of pattern layout. This manual prepares the reader to apply these concepts--along with their own intuition and creativity--to constructing patterns.
Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies' Jackets by Jo Baker-WatersWritten by a trained Savile Row tailor working in the fashion industry, this book explains how to make a basic pattern for a jacket by flat pattern cutting or draping on the dress form. It introduces a broad range of techniques with clear detailed instructions, and emphasizes the importance of an individual and creative approach. Patterns are included for basic block, single- and double-breasted blazers, and the tuxedo with sleeves and button variations, as well as instruction for style adjustments. It also includes directions on how to take measurements, fit jackets, and make alterations. Includes 315 color images and charts, 50 quarter scale flat patterns, and 12 full size templates.
Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design by Pamela VanderlindeJacket design gives students and designers alike trouble, both technically and creatively; the technicality of their design and existing texts on the subject often leave novices and budding designers puzzled. Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design covers patternmaking techniques for seven iconic jacket and coat designs, focusing not only on the concepts needed to draft patterns, but also uniquely exploring the history of each garment design to reveal what lies behind their enduring appeal today. Each chapter is provides easy-to-follow patterns for the blazer, tuxedo, military, motorcycle and Mao jackets, as well as the balmacaan and frock coats. Patternmaking for Jacket and Coat Design is an accessible, no-fuss, and visually stimulating manual for patterning iconic jackets and coats, providing a completely invaluable resource for both designers and amateur patternmakers.
Lingerie Design by Pamela PowellThe design of lingerie is often seen as a mystery, even by professionals working in other sectors of the fashion industry. This book explains the processes at work and the many unexpected influences that inform the choice of color, silhouettes, and decoration. The book documents the rise of the deluxe lingerie brand. This interest in luxury labels has led many young designers to chose lingerie as a creative outlet - conscious of fashion, but also with a clear view of their own 'lingerie world'. The book features the work of 30 lingerie designers from around the world, bringing out the individuality of each designer and providing a compelling insight into their working methods. Beautifully illustrated throughout, it presents inspirational images from the designers' collections alongside their sketches and mood boards. In this book, Pamela Powell takes a very practical approach, showing how to design and construct lingerie, sleepwear, and foundation garments. Step-by-step illustrations demonstrate the basic slopers and show how to manipulate them into different styles. Advice is given about how to work with the specialty fabrics used in the industry including woven, knit, power stretch, and bias-cut fabrics. Specially commissioned photographs and diagrams are used to showcase construction techniques specific to lingerie including boning, elastic, and lace insertion, and how and where to use the myriad of closures available. A final chapter on embellishment shows how to add unique and personal touches to garments and apply that luxurious finish.